![]() ![]() Finish coats came after the base had dried. Several coats were applied, the first keying into the spaces between the lath to make a stable base. Into the 20 th century, plaster was applied over wood lath spaced half an inch or so apart over the studs or ceiling joists. ![]() If the lath is in good condition and you need to repair holes, patching is a matter of troweling on layers of mud. ![]() Don’t use so-called patching plaster sold at home centers, it’s much harder than the wall’s original plaster, and it sets in the blink of an eye. It’s better to use a softer, slower-setting lime-based plaster, like the one developed for Big Wally’s line of plaster-repair products, takes about an hour to set, isn’t prone to cracking or delaminating, and needs no sanding, which keeps dust to a minimum. How Do You Repair a Hole in Lath and Plaster Walls?įor lath and plaster repair, it’s important to use good techniques and the right materials. First, you’ll repair the lath and then patch the hole. Again, the shelves came with a little piece of nylon strap that you are supposed to screw into the wall with a single cheapo anchor, and that is supposed to be sufficient.If you’re dealing with damaged lath and plaster walls-for example gaping holes in the wall because of electrical work-here are techniques you can use to repair them. Anyway, the forces as it begins to fall would be very small. Each large strip can handle about 5 pounds in shear, so I figure they can handle more tension perpendicular to the surface. Rock solid, and no vibration.Ĭommand strips are removable, even after years of use. So to control that, and to add an additional level of protection, I stuck a 2x4 to the wall using six large 3M Command adhesive strips, and then bolted the shelf uprights to the 2x4. IKEA Ivar, if you are interested.)īut like most things IKEA, these are made with the minimum structure required, and while they don’t lean or rack, they do bow from side to side a little. They cannot fall over, unless the sides collapse catastrophically (they are open, ladder-like assemblies predrilled for shelf supports. So the bookshelves are essentially wedged into place against the ceiling. With books filling the bookshelves, you can’t see the 1x2s. Then I tightened the adjustable feet to make sure it was tight. ![]() I just set them up then, screwed a piece of 1x2 to the side of each bookshelf close to the wall, snugged up tight to the ceiling. The bookshelves are floorstanding but quite tall, standing about 4 inches below the ceiling. In case it is helpful at all, I’ll post what I ended up doing. The only way there isn’t is if it’s solid concrete in which case that’s easy Even if it is solid plaster there should still be some structural element you could fasten to. If you do need to anchor through whole wall you can put a wall mounted coat rack or shelf on the other side or hang a picture or painting over bolts. Just away from potential electrical or plumbing and limit drill depth to about an inch. (Or previous homeowner special who knows what.) 5" From floor Could Just Be Lots Of Debris In Wall cavity, I Would Suggest Going up higher, Maybe 3’ or at your actual height, And doing s series of small,Easily Patchable, Like 1/8"-1/4" Test holes in a pattern to Try And find lathe(if it’s plaster) Probably 3 Holes At 3/4-1" Apart vertically Also Maybe 1-2’ Over another Set. What Bit did you drill with? I Think A Standard Bit in a non-hammer Drill Would Have decent Resistance If It Was Solid Plaster. I’m not the most experienced to comment since I’ve got limited regional and condo experience. ![]()
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